When I first stumbled upon The Dreamer Couch by Pop & Scott I FELL. IN. LOVE. Priced at over £6k though, I’d have to keep dreaming if I was ever going to afford one. So, in true DIYer style, I built my own version within just a few days, and for under £500.
This build has fulfilled all my laid-back, Scandi-style sofa dreams for the lounge, and I want to spread the joy by sharing my detailed step-by-step process. And don’t worry, if it’s outdoor furniture you’re looking for, I’ve got you covered! I’ve included weather-friendly tweaks so that it’s fit for any space.
I really hope you find this guide useful and if you build a sofa of your own, be sure to tag me on Instagram so I can share it!
There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through them, at no cost to you. It helps me to keep bringing these projects to you!
Tools and materials
- Drill + drill bits
- Circular saw
- Router + round-over edge bit
- Pocket hole jig
- Forstner bit 54mm
- Pocket screws 2″
- Pocket screws 2.5″
- Clamps
- Wood glue
- Wooden dowels
Sofa cushions
6″ reflex foam cut with rounded edges
- 1800mm x 850mm [1]
- 850mm x 930mm [1]
- 300mm x 420mm [2]
- 300mm x 450mm [2]
To make the cushion covers
- 12m of your chosen upholstery fabric (this is a little more than required but it covers you for any oopsies!)
- I used a sewing technique called boxed corners which was really simple for a sewing beginner like me. Click here for the tutorial I followed.
Cut list
Large seat platform
- 18mm birch plywood, 810mm x 1760 [1]
- Timber, 34mm x 70mm @ 1900 [2]
- Timber, 34mm x 34mm @ 810mm [2]
Small seat platform
- Timber, 34mm x 70mm @ 950mm [2]
- Timber, 34mm x 70mm @ 810mm [2]
- 18mm birch plywood, 810mm x 810mm [1]
Back and side rails
- Timber, 34mm x 34mm @ 250mm [9]
- Timber, 34mm x 34mm @ 1900mm [1]
- Timber, 34mm x 34mm @ 1870mm [1]
- Timber, 34mm x 34mm @ 585mm with angled cuts (see instructions) [2]
Legs
- 54mm diameter pine ‘mopstick’ handrail @ 300mm [11]
Leg brackets
- 18mm birch plywood @ 90mm x 90mm [11]
How to build it
I’ll take you through the large platform section but you can start with whichever one you like. Drill two pocket holes in either end of both 34mm x 70mm @ 950mm pieces of timber.
Attach both pieces of 34mm x 70mm @ 950mm timber to the shorter sides of the 810mm x 1760mm plywood using wooden dowels.
Note: These timber pieces should sit flush with the upside of the platform seat. This will make it look as though the seat platform is the same thickness as the timber, which will match up with the back rails.
Attach both pieces of 34mm x 70mm @ 1900mm timber to the long edges of the plywood using the same wooden dowels technique.
Glue and screw 2.5” pocket screws into the pocket holes, to secure at all four corners.
Repeat these steps to build the small platform section.
Drill holes in the centre of all the 90mm x 90mm plywood pieces using the 54mm forstner bit. These will be the leg brackets.
Drill pilot holes in all four corners of each leg bracket.
Apply wood glue on the inside the 54mm hole.
Apply wood glue to one end of a leg.
Secure the leg inside the hole (it should be a tight fit, use a rubber mallet to help if you need to!)
Make sure the leg is flush with the other side of the leg bracket, like this.
Screw a 2.5” pocket screw directly into one side of the leg bracket and through the leg to secure. Repeat this process with all legs and leg brackets.
Use the brackets to clamp the legs down and route a rounded edge on the end of each leg, this will stop them from splintering.
Space your legs out on the underside of each seat platform, using seven legs for the large section and four on the small section.
Secure each one with 4 x 30mm wood screws using the pilot holes on the leg brackets.
Flip both sections over and push them together, ready for the next steps!
For the seat backs, drill pocket holes at either end of each 34mm x 34mm @ 250mm timber piece, on the same side.
Space the pieces out evenly along the back of both platform sections. Face the pocket holes inwards, this means they’ll be concealed by the sofa cushions.
When you’re happy with the spacing, line up the 34mm x 34mm @ 1870mm timber and 34mm x 34mm @ 1900mm timber and secure each 34mm x 34mm @ 250mm timber piece to them with 2” pocket screws.
Line up both back pieces to the seat platforms and secure with 2” pocket screws.
For the angled side pieces, take both lengths of 34mm x 34mm @ 585mm timber and cut one end at a 30 angle, and the other at 60 . The longest side should remain at 585mm long. These are the side pieces.
Line up the side pieces at one end of the back rail, glue and screw in place with a 2” pocket screw. Secure the other end of the side piece from under the seat platform using a 2” pocket screw.
Arrange the covered cushions onto the sofa.
Arrange the covered cushions onto the sofa, and there you have it – you just built a corner sofa!
I wanted to live with the sofa for a while before using any kind of finish on the wood so it’s been left raw for these photos. I would recommend protecting it with some kind of oil, wax or varnish.